HOWTO: Mod VSHG single switch PS3 / X360

so, just wondering, is it possible to add a ps1 pcb on top of this mod?

 

Would it be possible to replace the sanwa stick with a LS32-01. The stock panel doesn't have the correct mounts, has anyone tried this or could someone suggest a solution. At the moment I think my only option is to replace the top panel.

 

I have a similar question, would it be possible to replace the sanwa stick with a LS40-01?

 

I'm wondering how long the "7mm nut driver" should I use to open the case?

http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-34308-SoftFin...4637&sr=8-4
Can I use this one? Or is it too short?

 

Dennis, that one should be long enough.

It looks like it says 125mm long, which is like 5 inches, VSHG is only 2-3 inches tall total.

 

Thanks KoD!!
I was worry about that handle bar is too fat, haha~


I'm lucky that I purchased the buttons during the WCG event but I regreat I bought 3 only....

 

The socket on the end may not be deep enough. See if there are deep socket nut drivers.

 

The original one said it had a hollow shaft, which means worst case the screw should fit inside the shaft and allow the head to engage with the nut, even if the head isnt that deep.

edit - that being said, if you have a local hardware store, probably easier to just buy one there - try it out in store if need be.

 

Thank you guys, I'll go to the local store and bring my VSHG to check out. Btw, how often do you guys change the switch? I have used this stick about 2 years and this is my first time to change.

 

Finally I replace the button and everything works fine now.
I'm wondering is that possible I can only purchase the switch, not the entire button? Basically the rest part is all plastic and it's just wasting the money.

 

Yeah, it's possible to get the individual switches, but I dont know of any place in the US that stocks them

here's the part:

http://www.arcadeshop.de/product_info.php?products_id=585&language=en


The plastic part of the button tends to wear and/or get crud stuck in it anyway in my experience.

 

I see, thanks KoD.
I'm not rush but I'll pay attention next time if I need some of them!! I think I'm going to replace my Hori with all SANWA parts.

 

If you have tools to open the case, easiest way to check is to remove one of the quick disconnects from the button (and tape it or something to make sure it doesn't short against metal somewhere). If that fixes it, the switch is bad & just needs to be replaced.

If the button is still "ON" at that point, either some of my wiring has gotten dislodged, or the 360 pcb has stopped working.

Let me know.

 

No, its not a stupid question, the QDs can be a pain in the ass.

Easiest way to do it is to get a really thin flat blade screwdriver, press it into the gap between the QD and the switch, and then twist the blade so that it presses the QD away from the switch.

 

I really love VSHG, and I can't believe SEGA don't release the Xbox360 version stick.... It always closes its business.....

 

I can take a look at it, either the next time you're in the US or if you want to ship it back. Don't know how often you play 6 button games, but in the meantime you can just disable that button in config.

Alternatively, if you or someone near you is comfortable troubleshooting it, here's what I'd start with:

- visually inspect the wire running from the ps3 pcb to the 360 pcb L1, make sure it isnt loose or somehow bent so that it shorts across the 2 sides of the contact on the pcb.

- barring that, desolder the L1 wire from the 360 pcb. At that point, the ps3 L1 button should work normally; if not, something else is wrong.

- if the 360 is still reporting the L1 button as down, check continuity using a multimeter across the 2 sides of the contact. If they're connected, use solder wick to remove any solder from the contact, check continuity, repeat as necessary.

- if there's no continuity across the L1 contacts and the 360 still reports the button as down, the pcb is fubar and needs to be replaced. Wouldn't be the first time i've had a 360 controller pcb just stop working.

- if cleaning up the L1 contacts fixes the issue, carefully resoldering the wire (to the non-ground side of the contact) should get it back in working order.