Stick questions

Ok so I finally plumped and got an SF4 TE for christmas. So far it's really fun and I'm really enjoying it (who'd have thunk it?!).

But I have some concerns.
When it was just outta the packaging you could move it in any direction even the slightest amount and it would register an input. Now, from neutral after about 4 hours of play, you have to move it maybe 2-3mm in either direction to get an input.

Is this normal? Is there a way to reset it so it responds instantly?

Also I've read that there is a TE round 2 coming out but that the differences are strictly cosmetic, is this true?

 

My guess is that the contact springs have a break-in phase. They should remain where they are now for some time. If you want to decease the dead zone, you need to open the controller and add material to the shaft. Examine the area where the shaft touches the contact springs and wrap something around it there.

If you can't be precise or permanent with your modification, you might be better off getting used to the larger dead zone. If your modding is poor, you'll have to deal with stick travel inconsistencies.

 

The stick part of TE is not Sanwa.

 

Is it still too late to nominate a post for 'dumbest post of the year'?

 

Haha~ sorry my bad and I haven't finished my ex thread~

Stick/Buttons
SF4TE -> Sanwa, Sanwa
SF4SE -> Mad Catz, Mad Catz
HRAP SA -> Sanwa, Sanwa
HRAP SE -> Seimitsu, Seimitsu
HRAP Original -> Sanwa, Hori
Hori Others -> Hori, Hori

My friend just got a TE for X'mas too and actually he purchased a HRAP SA about one month ago. I was lucky enogh to play with these two sticks in turns. My thought on TE is its stick is more loose than VSHG/HRAP. However, the best thing is you can customize your TE so it's not that hard to replace any part you want.

Now I don't like TE set up the "start" and "select" buttons on the edge side. It takes me more time and I need to move my wrist to presee "start", not convenient for me I guess~~

 

Thanks Plague, I think I'm keen on a smaller dead zone. Is there a guide on how to do the mod?

I think I'm probably going to try this after my 90 day guarentee is up.

Cool Dennis, good to know the stick is slightly looser by design and mine isn't just defective.

Also any one know if what I said about the SF4 TE round 2 is accurate? The Madcatz product line up here http://www.madcatz.com/pressreleases/Street_Fighter_IV_Round_2.pdf says it's just cosmetic but I thought I'd ask you guys who actually know a thing or two about sticks.

 

All of the different TE models are just art swaps. Get the default TE stick as it's the cheapest of the lot. Though really a Hori Real Arcade Pro EX-SA (PS3) or EX-SE (360) will do you just fine and they cost only $90 from Amazon.

Off the top of my head:

- default Madcatz TE stick
- San Diego comic convention TE stick
- Fem Fatale stick
- Round 2 TE stick
- MvC2 TE stick

All the exact same parts just different art and color buttons.

 

I don't fully understand what does your dead zone mean but I think all you need is be used to your new stick~
If you switch from Hori EX and it may take a while to be familiar with TE. Btw, I don't think you need to mod the stick instead of just replacing the part you want.

Overall TE is really good and hopefully you enojoy it!!
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Just check out Amazon and it's still about $130 for TE~
Still a little bit expensive....

 

Dead zone is neutral.

How much room the stick has to be in the neutral position.

 

Yep I've got an official TE which is slightly cheaper then that hori stick on amazon, maybe because they are hard to get now?

Good to know EMP, I'd be peeved if I'd just bought an inferior model about a month before it's succesor comes out lol.
Dennis the dead zone as I understand it is: if the stick is standing straight up, then the dead zone is the area you can move it before it registers inputs.

You said the TE was looser than the Hori which may mean it has a larger dead zone (I haven't tried the Hori).

 

I haven't looked for a mod guide. If you can open the controller and remove the stick assembly, it should be easy to remove the restrictor gate and contact plate and wrap the stick shaft with black electrical tape...




In the picture below, the clear plastic piece is the gate. It is removed by pushing in the black tabs one at a time and pulling on the corners of the gate. Once the gate is away, the contact block simply slides off. It can be phased in four directions so keep note before you remove it. If you slide it back on rotated 90 or 180 off, your inputs will register incorrectly.

Wrap the tape around the shaft where it will touch the contact switch tabs. The more tape you use, the less dead zone you should have. Wrap the tape tightly for best results...

 

Hey thanks Plague, I'm bookmarking this to use after the 90 days is up (just in case).

So I guess the looser the springs get over time the more tape you can put on to compensate.

Also outta curiosity, is what do you think is more cost effective. Getting the stick insured or replacing parts as they wear out? I'm just curious even though this question will probably be void if I can't get used to the dead zone in 90 days.

Geez I would've thought the stick would have come with a warrenty for the price but instead just some crummy guarentee.